The Emerald Boa, or Emerald Tree Boa (Corallus caninus) is native to tropical South America. A non-venomous, and highly arboreal species, they have long been considered difficult to keep in captivity due to their very specific husbandry requirements, and aggressive reputation.
While it is true that emerald boas will often strike defensively, and can be difficult to handle, to label them as aggressive snakes is to do them an injustice. They are truly beautiful and fascinating animals, and if kept and enjoyed in the same way you might enjoy an aquarium of tropical fish, they can and do make an excellent display snake. Infrequent, and careful handling using a snake hook for the purposes of enclosure maintenance is well advised. If you want a snake that you can free handle, this is not the species for you. Their reputation is backed up with some of the longest frontal teeth seen in a non-venomous snake, so a bite from an emerald boa is certainly to be avoided.
Their other reputation, of being a difficult species to maintain in captivity, is somewhat outdated. In recent years a number of herpetoculturists have been breeding these boas in increasing numbers. The key to their success is in maintaining a strict husbandry protocol, and very specific environmental controls. This article will aim to advise on how best to maintain emerald boas in captivity, but anyone considering keeping one of these amazing snakes would be advised to carry out further research before committing to their care.
While adult emerald tree boas can reach around 6 feet in length, they are largely inactive and with a very low metabolic rate have modest space requirements. They are best kept individually, introduced only to breed, and an adult specimen can be kept quite comfortably in a vivarium measuring 36" x 36" x 36". As an arboreal snake they will spend much of their time coiled on a branch so a number of sturdy perches are essential. These must be in different locations in the vivarium to allow proper thermoregulation.
A thermal gradient is essential to allow your emerald boa to maintain its body temperature. Daytime temperatures around 75 - 80 F, dropping to the low 70s at night is ideal. A basking area a few degrees higher must be provided, but no UV lighting is needed.
Just as important as temperature is humidity. The emerald boa's natural habitat is tropical rainforest, and without high enough humidity they will experience shedding difficulty and other health problems. The vivarium must be misted daily, reaching a high of around 80% humidity. Fresh water should also always be provided, although these snakes very rarely drink from a bowl, preferring to get their liquids from prey and droplets of water on branches and leaves, and their own scales.
A substrate of sphagnum moss will help to maintain the humidity required, although paper towels are easier to keep clean. Due to the high humidity, good ventilation is essential to prevent stale air and fungal growth which can cause respiratory problems.
Since the emerald boa has such a slow metabolism, they are very easy to overfeed. One suitably sized prey item should be offered every 14 - 21 days. Most specimens can be persuaded to take defrosted rodents.
The emerald boa is a magnificent snake, and makes a superb addition to any reptile keepers collection, so long as you are able to maintain their strict husbandry requirements. They are without doubt one of the most fascinating of the boa species available to the pet trade, and a truly magnificent animal.
By Billy Deakin
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