Milk Snakes and King Snakes Make Good Pets For Beginners

Have you been considering purchasing a snake as a pet? There are many different types of snakes available at specialty pet stores. But, if this is your first pet snake, you might want to consider purchasing a king snake or a milk snake. There are numerous sub-species that fall into these two closely-related snakes; this means you will have a variety of different colors and patterns to choose from. In addition, these snakes are generally non-aggressive and easy to care for.

Getting to Know the King Snake and the Milk Snake

King snakes and milk snakes are interesting creatures for a number of different reasons. For starters, the colors and patterns found on some of these snakes can look very similar coral snakes, which are very venomous snakes with yellow and red bands of color. In fact, the only real difference in appearance between a coral snake and a king or milk snake with the same coloring is the act that king and milk snakes have a line of black touching the red bands.

Another interesting characteristic of king snakes and milk snakes is the fact that they actually eat other snakes as well as lizards, rodents, amphibians and birds. Of course, as the owner of a king snake or milk snake, you would not feed other snakes to your pet. Not only would this be quite expensive for you, it would be potentially dangerous to your snake as well. Nonetheless, when surviving in the wild, king snakes and milk snakes can actually eat snakes that are larger than they are. In fact, it is not uncommon for some to regularly eat rattlesnakes in the wild. Therefore, you should never put more than one king snake or milk snake in the same aquarium, as one will be certain to make a meal out of the other.

Housing a King Snake or a Milk Snake

Since king snakes and milk snakes can reach six to seven feet in length, it is important to select a terrarium that is large enough for them to grow and to rest comfortably inside. When they are young, a 10 gallon tank may be sufficient. A full grown snake, however, should be provided a 60 gallon tank in which it can stretch and move about, as king snakes and milk snakes tend to be quite active.

When selecting a terrarium for a king snake or a milk snake, it is also very important to select one that can be secured tightly. These snakes have a reputation for getting out of their cages and for squeezing through even the smallest places. So, spend a little extra on a terrarium with a top that can be latched.

Maintaining the proper temperature is also important when it comes to keeping your snake healthy. Milk snakes and king snakes generally like their cages to be around 76 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, but the temperature should drop down to about 70 to 74 degrees Fahrenheit at night. At the same time, you should take measures to provide differing temperatures within the cage so your snake can move from one area to the next in order to regulate its temperature.

It is important to note that the needs of various varieties of milk snakes and king snakes can differ. Therefore, you should be certain to research the specific type of snake you are considering purchasing in order to make certain you set its home up properly and give it the best chance of living a long and healthy life.

By CS Swarens

Boa Constrictor Facts - The 7 Most Frequently Asked Questions About Boas

Boa constrictors are becoming more and more popular as pets, but how much do you really know about them? Here are the top boa facts I get asked about again and again...

What is the difference between a common boa and a red tailed boa?

Common boas (boa constrictor imperator) are a medium to large snake from Central America. Red Tailed Boas (boa constrictor imperator) are a slightly larger snake, with similar markings but a brighter, deeper red coloration on the tail. Both species are commonly kept as pets, but the true red tails are generally considered more desirable and thus are more expensive.

How big do boas grow?

Some boas can reach over 12 feet in length, while species such as the rosy boa only reach 24 inches as adults. The most commonly kept boa constrictor species tend to reach 8 - 9 feet in length as adults, with the males being a foot or so shorter than the females.

What should I feed my boa?

Boas are pure carnivores. They eat a selection of rodents and other mammals, birds and lizards. In captivity they can be fed exclusively on rodents such as mice, rats, and even rabbits for very large specimens. Most captive snakes are fed on frozen and defrosted prey.

How often should I feed my boa?

An adult boa should be fed every 12 - 14 days while new born snakes need feeding weekly. It is a fact that snakes are very prone to obesity in captivity so care should be taken not to overfeed.

Do pet boas need heating?

All snakes are ectothermic, which means they control their body temperature by using their environment. Since most boas come from tropical climates, you will need to provide heating to keep them successfully in captivity. A 'thermal gradient' where one area of the enclosure is warmer, while another is cooler, allows the boa to maintain an optimal body temperature. This is achieved with the use of one or more heat sources controlled by a thermostat.

Do pet boas need special lighting?

While many reptiles need broad spectrum ultra violet lighting to simulate sunlight, boas are mostly nocturnal and do not require it. Some keepers provide a small light for the purpose of better viewing their snakes, but this does not affect their health.

Why does my boa soak in his water bowl?

All reptiles shed their skin periodically. When about to shed, snakes need a higher humidity and will deep out damp places, or even water. Soaking like this is perfectly normal and nothing to worry about if your boa sheds a few days afterwards. Other possible reasons for soaking however are overheating and a mite infestation. Be sure to check your thermostats to ensure that the temperature is correct. Then check for mites which are small spots which may appear to move, and will be more prominent around the head. Mites can be treated quite easily but it is advisable to consult a vet before commencing treatment.

By Billy Deakin

Ball Python Care Sheet

Ball pythons are one of the easiest snakes when it comes to providing a proper enclosure. They don't climb, they don't move much and they don't need special lighting. What you do have to provide for them however, is a good deal of room, (remember, this is snake that is four or five feet long and built very thick) a nice spot to hide, (they will very likely sleep in that spot all during the day and only come out at night) warmth, and high humidity.

Habitat: The exact amount of room required depends directly on the age and size of your snake. For the most part, a 10-gallon aquarium will work very well for a baby python, and a 40-gallon breeder works for an adult. The "breeder" shape (low and wide) is ideal since a long aquarium would be too thin to allow the snake to turn around quickly, and a tall aquarium would have a lot of room that the snake wouldn't actually use (remember, they don't climb).

A hiding spot is important in order that your snake not feel constantly exposed and vulnerable. Ideally, you should provide something that is just big enough for your snake to curl up inside. You want to go for smaller rather than larger as much as possible since the snake will actually prefer to have his body pressed right up against the sides. A nice half-log or wooden hide box also provides a rough surface for your snake rub against when it's time for him or her to shed.

Heating & Humidity: Whatever you use as an enclosure, you should create a range of temperatures that goes from around 80 degrees up to around 90. The easiest way to create this range is to put a heat source (a heat lamp, an under tank heating pad, but NOT a heat rock) on one side of the cage and let the other side be cooler. If you use a bright light for a heat source, make sure it is always turned off at night (a cycle of 12 hours on and then 12 hours off typically works well) since these are nocturnal snakes, constant bright light overhead is both stressful and confusing for them, and can result in poor feeding and grumpiness. Also, it's best not to guess at the temperature; get at least one thermometer for the tank (they're cheap) so that you know for sure your snake is in optimal conditions. Otherwise if your snake starts to have a problem (loss of appetite, problems shedding) you can more easily rule out things such as inadequate heating.

Humidity is important since in their natural habitat (Jungles of Western Africa) they have adapted to breathing humid air and having a high ambient humidity (80% or more) at all times. If kept in too dry of an environment, they can become dehydrated and have difficulty shedding. The easiest ways to keep the humidity high are to have a large water bowl (large enough for your snake to soak in if he feels the need) under the heat source, and to periodically spray the substrate with a little water. A good mulch or bark type substrate will soak up the water and then let it evaporate into the air of the tank, allowing a steady supply of humid air.

Feeding: When it comes time to feed your snake, it's better to feed pre-killed or frozen and thawed rodents. Admittedly, seeing your snake hunt a live mouse or rat is more exciting, but there is a risk (a small one, but still a real risk) that if your snake doesn't eat his food, his food could turn around and injure him badly. If your snake doesn't initially show interest in prey that isn't running around, try heating up his frozen dinner in chicken broth. If you must feed live (either for personal preference or because your snake will not accept pre-killed prey) then be sure to supervise all feeding and never leave a rodent in with your snake for more than and hour at the most.

Start off young snakes on one mouse every week, then as they grow (around 2 feet or so) start adding mice to the weekly meal. Make it two or three for a while. Then once the snake gets around three or three and a half feet, you can start trying rats. Certain snakes won't accept rats at first and if you find yourself in this situation, you can try the chicken broth trick from above, or when you buy your rat, have Wild Side employee through some mouse bedding over your rat. By the time you feed your snake rats, his appetite will likely only make him want to eat every other week or so. It's also normal for snakes to skip a few meals from time to time. A healthy snake can go moths without eating and ball pythons are particularly prone to fasting. If you're worried (which should only happen after several skipped meals) first try making the enclosure hotter by a few degrees. Then try some novel prey items to stimulate interest (frozen chicks are available online and are often taken readily by otherwise completely disinterested snakes). Of course, you know your snake the best and if he stops feeding and there are any changes in behavior or you're just not OK with letting it go for a while, don't hesitate to bring your snake and/or a sample of his poop (gross, but sometimes important) to your vet to check for parasites or illness.

This info should definitely help you get started. As always, we encourage you to ask lots of questions and do your own research. The more you know about your pet, the better you can take care of it and the more you'll enjoy it.

By Adam Burgi

Emerald Boa Care - Husbandry and Breeding of Emerald Boas

The Emerald Boa, or Emerald Tree Boa (Corallus caninus) is native to tropical South America. A non-venomous, and highly arboreal species, they have long been considered difficult to keep in captivity due to their very specific husbandry requirements, and aggressive reputation.

While it is true that emerald boas will often strike defensively, and can be difficult to handle, to label them as aggressive snakes is to do them an injustice. They are truly beautiful and fascinating animals, and if kept and enjoyed in the same way you might enjoy an aquarium of tropical fish, they can and do make an excellent display snake. Infrequent, and careful handling using a snake hook for the purposes of enclosure maintenance is well advised. If you want a snake that you can free handle, this is not the species for you. Their reputation is backed up with some of the longest frontal teeth seen in a non-venomous snake, so a bite from an emerald boa is certainly to be avoided.

Their other reputation, of being a difficult species to maintain in captivity, is somewhat outdated. In recent years a number of herpetoculturists have been breeding these boas in increasing numbers. The key to their success is in maintaining a strict husbandry protocol, and very specific environmental controls. This article will aim to advise on how best to maintain emerald boas in captivity, but anyone considering keeping one of these amazing snakes would be advised to carry out further research before committing to their care.

While adult emerald tree boas can reach around 6 feet in length, they are largely inactive and with a very low metabolic rate have modest space requirements. They are best kept individually, introduced only to breed, and an adult specimen can be kept quite comfortably in a vivarium measuring 36" x 36" x 36". As an arboreal snake they will spend much of their time coiled on a branch so a number of sturdy perches are essential. These must be in different locations in the vivarium to allow proper thermoregulation.

A thermal gradient is essential to allow your emerald boa to maintain its body temperature. Daytime temperatures around 75 - 80 F, dropping to the low 70s at night is ideal. A basking area a few degrees higher must be provided, but no UV lighting is needed.

Just as important as temperature is humidity. The emerald boa's natural habitat is tropical rainforest, and without high enough humidity they will experience shedding difficulty and other health problems. The vivarium must be misted daily, reaching a high of around 80% humidity. Fresh water should also always be provided, although these snakes very rarely drink from a bowl, preferring to get their liquids from prey and droplets of water on branches and leaves, and their own scales.

A substrate of sphagnum moss will help to maintain the humidity required, although paper towels are easier to keep clean. Due to the high humidity, good ventilation is essential to prevent stale air and fungal growth which can cause respiratory problems.

Since the emerald boa has such a slow metabolism, they are very easy to overfeed. One suitably sized prey item should be offered every 14 - 21 days. Most specimens can be persuaded to take defrosted rodents.

The emerald boa is a magnificent snake, and makes a superb addition to any reptile keepers collection, so long as you are able to maintain their strict husbandry requirements. They are without doubt one of the most fascinating of the boa species available to the pet trade, and a truly magnificent animal.

By Billy Deakin

Columbian Boa Care Sheet - Keeping Columbian Boas in Captivity

Scientific name: Boa Constrictor Imperator

The boa constrictor imperator is commonly known as the Common Boa, or Columbian Boa. The Boa Constrictor Imperator appears in literature with many different names, among which are: Sonoran boa, Hog Island boa, Central American Boa depending on geographic location, however it should not be confused with the popular Boa Constrictor Constrictor, or Red Tailed Boa, which is a separate sub-species.

Pattern: The Columbian boa is similar in appearance to the Red Tailed Boa constrictor. Most of the common boas have a reddish tail (though less vibrant than the true Red Tailed Boas), with the rest of the body a light brown with darker saddles.

Size: The Common Boa, or Columbian boa, while certainly a large snake, is relatively small for a boa constrictor. Its distinctive characteristic is the striking difference in size between the neck and the head; the body is compressed while the tail is very long. The adult Columbian boa weighs approximately 45 pounds and the female ones - which are by default bigger and stronger - weigh approximately 50 pounds. While adult red tailed boas may reach 12 feet, most common boas rarely exceed 9 feet in length.

Cage: The Columbian boa is known as a docile snake, easy to handle, and relatively easy to take care of. When young, it can be kept in a cage measuring 24x15x15 inches; most boa owners though buy a large aquarium from the beginning: a 72x24x24 vivarium will house an adult boa so there is no need to change cages later on. The vivarium needs to be easy to clean, well ventilated, and secure. For that reason, melamine or plastic vivariums with lockable glass sliding doors are recommended.

Heat: If you want to make your Columbian boa thrive in captivity, you need to provide not only adequate heat, but also a correct temperature gradient. The common boa comes from tropical environments, so additional heat is absolutely necessary. During the day an average temperature of 80-85F is recommended; at night the temperature should drop to 75-78F. You should also provide a basking area, where temperature is higher (closer to 90F). Providing a basking area is necessary for the Columbian boa, as it can avoid respiratory and other health problem. There are a number of heat sources available on the market. Incandescent bulbs, heat mat, and heat cable have all been used effectively but ceramic heaters are the most effective. Since they produce heat without light they do not affect the snake's photo period. Ceramic heaters however can get extremely hot so care must be taken to ensure that a guard is securely fastened to avoid burns.

Feeding: The Columbian Boa is a nocturnal snake and hunter; in the wild it usually eats small animals and birds. In captivity they can be fed exclusively on defrosted rodents which provide all the nutrients they need. A single prey item should be offered fortnightly for adults. The size of the prey should not be more than the snake's girth in order to prevent digestive problems. Juvenile boas should be fed weekly. A bowl of clean, fresh water should always be provided.

BY Billy Deakin