Corn Snakes

Corn snakes are the most popular pet snake there is, and for a very good reason. These are snakes with a very good temper, and they are very easy to keep in an enclosure. Their adult size will usually be between 4 to 6 feet, and they have a very slender body type. The "original" corn snake has a black and white checkered pattern on their bellies that resembles a corn cob. I say original because corn snakes have been bred to get the most amazing colors and patterns; spotted, striped, no pattern, and all kinds of colors. Even pet shops usually have a wide variety of these "morphs".

Corn snakes live for a long time, around 15 to 20 years, so keep this in mind when buying one. In this care sheet I will try to explain the most important sides of having a pet corn snake.

Setup

When you get your first corn snake, it is important that you have its setup ready.

First they need a tank to live in, a ten gallon tank is a good size for a young one. Then you increase the size of the tank up to 20 or 30 gallon when it reaches adult size.

At the bottom of the tank you need substrate. You could use newspaper or plain paper, but a better choice is aspen wood shavings. The snake might burrow in it, it's very easy to clean and it even helps the snake shed by allowing it to rub against it. There are also specially designed reptile carpets you can get, but whatever you choose just remember that cedar is poisonous to snakes, and pine can dehydrate their skin. Most stores have aspen, and it's cheap and easy so I would say go with that.

One of the most important things, especially for a young corn snake is a hide. A lot of people forget just how important this is. The snake needs to feel safe, and a large empty tank will make the snake very stressed. I can guarantee you that the hide will be the one thing that your snake will use the most. For a hide you can use a box with a hole at the side, a flower pot with a hole at the bottom turned upside down, or you can buy a more fancy one at a pet store. Even an empty toilet roll will work! You should have at least two hides, one on each side of the tank; one on the cool end, and one on the warm end.

This leads me to the heat source. Unless you live where it's very warm you should have some sort of heat in your tank. Snakes need heat to properly digest their food. A good choice is an UTH(under tank heater). This is a mat specifically designed for reptiles, and you put it underneath on one side of the tank. This will give the snake a gradient in its tank, a difference in temperature on the two sides. Alternatively you could use a heat lamp, but this option will not give the snake any belly heat, so an UTH is the best option. It's important to remember that the UTH can get very hot, if left without a thermostat it can reach up to 120 fahrenheit! This is of course too hot, and will cause severe burns. So make sure you have plenty of substrate to prevent the snake from laying right on the glass. If you buy a thermostat, a meter that will control the temperature you will save yourself a lot of worries as even with enough substrate on the bottom the snake can still burrow down to the bottom. Snakes are "stupid" in the way that they will not notice that they burn their skin until it's too late. $40 will give you an OK thermostat, and is well worth its price. If you live in hot areas you'll probably be fine without a heat source, but for most you should definitely get one.

A meter to measure the temperature and humidity is also important. Humidity is vital for a healthy shed, so when you see that your snake is going to shed increase the humidity to around 65-70%. A simple way to do this is to mist the tank with a spray bottle, or to put a wet towel over the lid. The wet towel will quickly increase the humidity, when it reaches the level you want simply replace it with a dry towel covering 3/4 of the top. This will help keep the humidity in, without getting 100%. Extended periods of high humidity can lead to sickness, so keep the humidity high only when its shedding.

Water must always be available, and the size of the water bowl should enable the snake to soak its body in it. You can buy one from a pet store, but a kitchen bowl will work just as well. Just make sure that the snake does not tip it over. This should be placed on the cool end, opposite of the cool hide.

A secure lid is of course a must-have. Petco has clips for $3 that you put on both sides of the lid, and they work perfectly. A runaway snake is VERY hard to find, especially when its young. And even baby snakes can escape through the smallest gap. Our first corn snake managed to escape once, although this was because I forgot to put the lid back on its cage. Needless to say we turned the whole apartment upside down looking for it, seeing as there were three cats trying to get it before we did. Luckily hours later it showed up underneath the vacuum cleaner. So be careful, get the clips and remember to put them on.

A branch to climb on, or fake plants for decor is also something you might add to your setup. Just remember that anything you bring in from outside, or if you buy it used put it in the oven for a couple of hours on 200 degrees (fahrenheit). This will kill any parasites on it. For plastic plants, rinse them out in a weak bleach solution. If you have these things set up, you should be ready for the snake!
Bringing the Corn Snake home

When acquiring a corn snake you have several possibilities. Pet store, breeder or the classifieds.

A breeder will always be the best choice, as you are dealing with people who love the snakes. Corn snake breeding does not take in a lot of money, so you can be sure that the breeder has a passion for these animals. You'll be able to know it's history, sex, date of birth, its feeding records etc. Also you are more protected against parasites. Pet stores usually have a lot of different animals, and their main goal is to make $$. Some stores do take good care of their animals, but unfortunately they are in minority. a lot of people do get their snakes from pet stores, but I would strongly advise you to support the community and buy from a breeder. Buying from the classifieds you never know what you're going to get, you have no guarantee that the seller is telling you the truth. But the choice is yours.

When you bring home the corn snake there will be about a week where you cannot disturb it. The snake needs to get used to its new home, and in the mean time you must leave it alone. By giving the snake a week to settle down, you ensure that you will end up with a healthy, comfortable snake. After a week has passed, take it out on a regular basis, and let it get used to you. At first it might be a little shy and nippy, but don't worry. With handling and time it will settle down and be a wonderful pet.

To pick up the snake try to scoop it up from underneath. A big hand coming directly towards its head might feel threatening, so go in from the side as opposed to from above it. Be careful though, a young corn is very skittish and might try to jump right out of your hand. A fall might seriously hurt it, so be cautious and don't let young children hold the baby snake. If there are young children in the family, wait till the snake has calmed down before they hold it.
Feeding

A week after you brought it home, it should have gotten so comfortable that it will eat. If the corn is stressed or the temperatures are wrong it might not want food, but hopefully this is not the case.

For feedings provide a separate box of some sort, it can be cardboard, tupperware or whatever you have handy. Feeding in the tank is not a good idea, as the snake might digest the substrate which can kill it. Also when feeding in a separate container, the snake won't associate its tank with feeding, so when you go to pick it up you won't be mistaken for food. Hatchlings, that is baby corn snakes, eat one pinkie mouse every four or five days. These newborn mice can usually be bought frozen at pet stores, or you can go online for better deals. Put the pinkie in some hot water for around ten minutes, and make sure that it's completely thawed out. When the snake is in the feeding box, slowly dangle the pinkie in front of it. When the snake strikes, let go and let it eat without interruption. When the the pinkie is swallowed and you can see the lump a good way down its tummy slowly pick up the snake and put it back in its tank.

Now it needs 48 hours to digest the food. Heat plays a crucial role in digestion, as well as leaving it alone for two full days. Digestion takes a lot of energy for snakes, so much that if it doesn't feel safe or is stressed out it might regurgitate the food.(throw up) This is its basic instincts, if it needs to make a safe escape from a dangerous situation (from the snake's view) it cannot do this while digesting, hence the regurgitation. After a couple of days the food should be digested, and you can continue handling until next feeding.

There are problems that might come up with feeding that I will address. Hopefully you won't have to worry about this though. If the snake will not eat, wait five days before trying again. Trying sooner will just stress the snake out even more. A snake is not going to be hurt by going a few weeks without food, so just be patient.

There are different techniques you might try if it really won't eat. First, make sure that the temperatures are good, and that you're not handling it too much. If so, you can put the pinkie and the snake in a brown paper bag, roll up the end so it won't be able to get out and leave it overnight in the tank. You can also try cutting a hole in the pinkie's head hoping that brain matter will lure the snake to eat. Alternatively, soak the pinkie in chicken broth before trying to feed it. If it's been over a month you should consider taking your snake to the veterinarian to check for parasites.

If you experience regurgitation something is wrong and you must fix it. Check your husbandry, look in water bowl for mites, and leave the snake alone until next feeding. Also, make sure that you are feeding appropriately sized mice. When the snake gets bigger, increase the size of the mouse and days between feeding. You can also feed rats; adult corns can have either two adult mice or a small rat every two weeks. If feeding rats, you need to make sure that the snake does not get fat. Rats are a lot more fattening then mice, so if you see that your snake starts to develop hips you should switch to mice.

Other Facts to Remember

Snakes shed as they grow, and it's important that they have good sheds. If the snake has not fully shed its skin, try giving it a bath in luke-warm water, or hold a wet towel around it. You can also put wet paper towels inside its hide to help the snake shed.

If your snake soaks in the water a lot, look for mites. Most often you will be able to spot them in the water. They are small and black or red, with legs. Mites are not because of a dirty tank etc, they probably got it from another reptile. Pet stores have mite treatment that work good, and both the snake, the tank and everything in the tank need to be treated. Also if you have other reptiles, they might have it too. Mites are harmless to humans, but can be fatal to snakes so be sure to treat them as soon as possible.

Secrets to Caring For a Baby Red Eared Slider

Baby Red Eared Sliders Are Equipped For Survival

Baby red eared sliders are born with most of the tools necessary for their survival. Most turtles lay their eggs and then abandon the nest, leaving the newly hatched turtles to fend for themselves. As such, millions of years of evolution have equipped your baby turtle to survive. However, this is not an excuse not to put the effort into making sure your baby red eared slider is safe and healthy. Remember that in the wild most baby turtles don't make it, so it's up to you to give them the support and comfort they need.

Feeding Your Baby Red Eared Slider

What to feed your turtle is an important consideration. You'll find food specific to your turtle at most pet food stores. Babies can also be fed dried krill or small insects. Although most turtles tend to become more herbivorous as they mature, baby turtles tend to have a diet higher in animal products. In addition to commercial turtle food, young turtles can also eat leafy greens and aquatic plants, although these are not enough alone. A good mixture of commercial food, animal products and vegetation seems to be the best mix for your turtle.

Housing Your Baby Red Eared Slider

Housing baby red eared sliders can be expensive. You will need several items to get started. An aquarium or tank is the first thing. As a general rule, you should have ten gallons of water for every inch of your turtle. For example, a seven inch turtle would require a seventy gallon tank. Remember that your turtle can grow to 12 to 14 inches when fully mature. As such, you should start with a minimum twenty gallon tank. But realize that your turtle will quickly outgrow that and you'll need to adjust. You will also need materials for "land" in your tank. Although red eared sliders are aquatic turtles, they cannot breath under water and you will need to have a "land" area for them to rest and bask. You will also need heat lamps and a way to clean and filter the water in the tank.

Bearded Dragon Feeding Guide

Bearded dragons are omnivorous reptiles, which means they eat both vegetables and live food (insects). They will eat a mixture of both throughout their entire lifespan, however, the ratio of veggies to insects will change as the dragon grows. When young, a bearded dragon will eat mostly live food. This is a very active time for the young dragon and it will steadily grow in size over the first 1 - 2 years of its life. As a beardie gets older, its diet will start to consist of more vegetables and less live food.

Suppliments

For proper nutrition, calcium and vitamin powders will occasionally need to be applied to the food (normally by dusting their meal with a fine powdered supplement). Calcium intake is very important because bearded dragons can be susceptible to metabolic bone disease if proper calcium levels are not reached. Supplement powders can be applied to live insects by placing some in a plastic bag with the insects and shaking.

Vegetables

It is also important to vary the types of vegetables and insects that you feed your bearded dragon. A varied diet provides a wider range of vitamins and nutrients. Some vegetables may be high in certain vitamins but lacking in others. The basis of the vegetable portion of a dragons diet should be leafy greens. These include collard greens, mustard greens, kale, and dandelion greens. Greens should be provided every day for a dragon throughout its life. The base green vegetables should be supplemented with small portions of other vegetables including beans, peppers, and carrots. All vegetable matter that you feed to a bearded dragon must be sufficiently chopped up so that the dragon will not choke on it. Nothing you feed your beardie should be larger than the space between their eyes.

Insects

Insects should be given to young dragons daily. Only feed as many as the bearded dragon can consume in one feeding. Remove any insects if the dragon does not eat them as they can nibble on sensitive parts of a beardie while they sleep. As a bearded dragon gets older, it will eat less and less live food and the feedings can be reduced to every other day. Only feed insects that are smaller than the width between the bearded dragons eyes as food that is too large can cause health problems and become lodged in your dragons digestive tract. Some common feeder insects include crickets, mealworms, superworms, and roaches. Freeze dried or otherwise preserved insects are also available at pet stores, however, live food is best.

By Scottie Thompson

Milk Snakes and King Snakes Make Good Pets For Beginners

Have you been considering purchasing a snake as a pet? There are many different types of snakes available at specialty pet stores. But, if this is your first pet snake, you might want to consider purchasing a king snake or a milk snake. There are numerous sub-species that fall into these two closely-related snakes; this means you will have a variety of different colors and patterns to choose from. In addition, these snakes are generally non-aggressive and easy to care for.

Getting to Know the King Snake and the Milk Snake

King snakes and milk snakes are interesting creatures for a number of different reasons. For starters, the colors and patterns found on some of these snakes can look very similar coral snakes, which are very venomous snakes with yellow and red bands of color. In fact, the only real difference in appearance between a coral snake and a king or milk snake with the same coloring is the act that king and milk snakes have a line of black touching the red bands.

Another interesting characteristic of king snakes and milk snakes is the fact that they actually eat other snakes as well as lizards, rodents, amphibians and birds. Of course, as the owner of a king snake or milk snake, you would not feed other snakes to your pet. Not only would this be quite expensive for you, it would be potentially dangerous to your snake as well. Nonetheless, when surviving in the wild, king snakes and milk snakes can actually eat snakes that are larger than they are. In fact, it is not uncommon for some to regularly eat rattlesnakes in the wild. Therefore, you should never put more than one king snake or milk snake in the same aquarium, as one will be certain to make a meal out of the other.

Housing a King Snake or a Milk Snake

Since king snakes and milk snakes can reach six to seven feet in length, it is important to select a terrarium that is large enough for them to grow and to rest comfortably inside. When they are young, a 10 gallon tank may be sufficient. A full grown snake, however, should be provided a 60 gallon tank in which it can stretch and move about, as king snakes and milk snakes tend to be quite active.

When selecting a terrarium for a king snake or a milk snake, it is also very important to select one that can be secured tightly. These snakes have a reputation for getting out of their cages and for squeezing through even the smallest places. So, spend a little extra on a terrarium with a top that can be latched.

Maintaining the proper temperature is also important when it comes to keeping your snake healthy. Milk snakes and king snakes generally like their cages to be around 76 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, but the temperature should drop down to about 70 to 74 degrees Fahrenheit at night. At the same time, you should take measures to provide differing temperatures within the cage so your snake can move from one area to the next in order to regulate its temperature.

It is important to note that the needs of various varieties of milk snakes and king snakes can differ. Therefore, you should be certain to research the specific type of snake you are considering purchasing in order to make certain you set its home up properly and give it the best chance of living a long and healthy life.

By CS Swarens

Boa Constrictor Facts - The 7 Most Frequently Asked Questions About Boas

Boa constrictors are becoming more and more popular as pets, but how much do you really know about them? Here are the top boa facts I get asked about again and again...

What is the difference between a common boa and a red tailed boa?

Common boas (boa constrictor imperator) are a medium to large snake from Central America. Red Tailed Boas (boa constrictor imperator) are a slightly larger snake, with similar markings but a brighter, deeper red coloration on the tail. Both species are commonly kept as pets, but the true red tails are generally considered more desirable and thus are more expensive.

How big do boas grow?

Some boas can reach over 12 feet in length, while species such as the rosy boa only reach 24 inches as adults. The most commonly kept boa constrictor species tend to reach 8 - 9 feet in length as adults, with the males being a foot or so shorter than the females.

What should I feed my boa?

Boas are pure carnivores. They eat a selection of rodents and other mammals, birds and lizards. In captivity they can be fed exclusively on rodents such as mice, rats, and even rabbits for very large specimens. Most captive snakes are fed on frozen and defrosted prey.

How often should I feed my boa?

An adult boa should be fed every 12 - 14 days while new born snakes need feeding weekly. It is a fact that snakes are very prone to obesity in captivity so care should be taken not to overfeed.

Do pet boas need heating?

All snakes are ectothermic, which means they control their body temperature by using their environment. Since most boas come from tropical climates, you will need to provide heating to keep them successfully in captivity. A 'thermal gradient' where one area of the enclosure is warmer, while another is cooler, allows the boa to maintain an optimal body temperature. This is achieved with the use of one or more heat sources controlled by a thermostat.

Do pet boas need special lighting?

While many reptiles need broad spectrum ultra violet lighting to simulate sunlight, boas are mostly nocturnal and do not require it. Some keepers provide a small light for the purpose of better viewing their snakes, but this does not affect their health.

Why does my boa soak in his water bowl?

All reptiles shed their skin periodically. When about to shed, snakes need a higher humidity and will deep out damp places, or even water. Soaking like this is perfectly normal and nothing to worry about if your boa sheds a few days afterwards. Other possible reasons for soaking however are overheating and a mite infestation. Be sure to check your thermostats to ensure that the temperature is correct. Then check for mites which are small spots which may appear to move, and will be more prominent around the head. Mites can be treated quite easily but it is advisable to consult a vet before commencing treatment.

By Billy Deakin

Ball Python Care Sheet

Ball pythons are one of the easiest snakes when it comes to providing a proper enclosure. They don't climb, they don't move much and they don't need special lighting. What you do have to provide for them however, is a good deal of room, (remember, this is snake that is four or five feet long and built very thick) a nice spot to hide, (they will very likely sleep in that spot all during the day and only come out at night) warmth, and high humidity.

Habitat: The exact amount of room required depends directly on the age and size of your snake. For the most part, a 10-gallon aquarium will work very well for a baby python, and a 40-gallon breeder works for an adult. The "breeder" shape (low and wide) is ideal since a long aquarium would be too thin to allow the snake to turn around quickly, and a tall aquarium would have a lot of room that the snake wouldn't actually use (remember, they don't climb).

A hiding spot is important in order that your snake not feel constantly exposed and vulnerable. Ideally, you should provide something that is just big enough for your snake to curl up inside. You want to go for smaller rather than larger as much as possible since the snake will actually prefer to have his body pressed right up against the sides. A nice half-log or wooden hide box also provides a rough surface for your snake rub against when it's time for him or her to shed.

Heating & Humidity: Whatever you use as an enclosure, you should create a range of temperatures that goes from around 80 degrees up to around 90. The easiest way to create this range is to put a heat source (a heat lamp, an under tank heating pad, but NOT a heat rock) on one side of the cage and let the other side be cooler. If you use a bright light for a heat source, make sure it is always turned off at night (a cycle of 12 hours on and then 12 hours off typically works well) since these are nocturnal snakes, constant bright light overhead is both stressful and confusing for them, and can result in poor feeding and grumpiness. Also, it's best not to guess at the temperature; get at least one thermometer for the tank (they're cheap) so that you know for sure your snake is in optimal conditions. Otherwise if your snake starts to have a problem (loss of appetite, problems shedding) you can more easily rule out things such as inadequate heating.

Humidity is important since in their natural habitat (Jungles of Western Africa) they have adapted to breathing humid air and having a high ambient humidity (80% or more) at all times. If kept in too dry of an environment, they can become dehydrated and have difficulty shedding. The easiest ways to keep the humidity high are to have a large water bowl (large enough for your snake to soak in if he feels the need) under the heat source, and to periodically spray the substrate with a little water. A good mulch or bark type substrate will soak up the water and then let it evaporate into the air of the tank, allowing a steady supply of humid air.

Feeding: When it comes time to feed your snake, it's better to feed pre-killed or frozen and thawed rodents. Admittedly, seeing your snake hunt a live mouse or rat is more exciting, but there is a risk (a small one, but still a real risk) that if your snake doesn't eat his food, his food could turn around and injure him badly. If your snake doesn't initially show interest in prey that isn't running around, try heating up his frozen dinner in chicken broth. If you must feed live (either for personal preference or because your snake will not accept pre-killed prey) then be sure to supervise all feeding and never leave a rodent in with your snake for more than and hour at the most.

Start off young snakes on one mouse every week, then as they grow (around 2 feet or so) start adding mice to the weekly meal. Make it two or three for a while. Then once the snake gets around three or three and a half feet, you can start trying rats. Certain snakes won't accept rats at first and if you find yourself in this situation, you can try the chicken broth trick from above, or when you buy your rat, have Wild Side employee through some mouse bedding over your rat. By the time you feed your snake rats, his appetite will likely only make him want to eat every other week or so. It's also normal for snakes to skip a few meals from time to time. A healthy snake can go moths without eating and ball pythons are particularly prone to fasting. If you're worried (which should only happen after several skipped meals) first try making the enclosure hotter by a few degrees. Then try some novel prey items to stimulate interest (frozen chicks are available online and are often taken readily by otherwise completely disinterested snakes). Of course, you know your snake the best and if he stops feeding and there are any changes in behavior or you're just not OK with letting it go for a while, don't hesitate to bring your snake and/or a sample of his poop (gross, but sometimes important) to your vet to check for parasites or illness.

This info should definitely help you get started. As always, we encourage you to ask lots of questions and do your own research. The more you know about your pet, the better you can take care of it and the more you'll enjoy it.

By Adam Burgi

Emerald Boa Care - Husbandry and Breeding of Emerald Boas

The Emerald Boa, or Emerald Tree Boa (Corallus caninus) is native to tropical South America. A non-venomous, and highly arboreal species, they have long been considered difficult to keep in captivity due to their very specific husbandry requirements, and aggressive reputation.

While it is true that emerald boas will often strike defensively, and can be difficult to handle, to label them as aggressive snakes is to do them an injustice. They are truly beautiful and fascinating animals, and if kept and enjoyed in the same way you might enjoy an aquarium of tropical fish, they can and do make an excellent display snake. Infrequent, and careful handling using a snake hook for the purposes of enclosure maintenance is well advised. If you want a snake that you can free handle, this is not the species for you. Their reputation is backed up with some of the longest frontal teeth seen in a non-venomous snake, so a bite from an emerald boa is certainly to be avoided.

Their other reputation, of being a difficult species to maintain in captivity, is somewhat outdated. In recent years a number of herpetoculturists have been breeding these boas in increasing numbers. The key to their success is in maintaining a strict husbandry protocol, and very specific environmental controls. This article will aim to advise on how best to maintain emerald boas in captivity, but anyone considering keeping one of these amazing snakes would be advised to carry out further research before committing to their care.

While adult emerald tree boas can reach around 6 feet in length, they are largely inactive and with a very low metabolic rate have modest space requirements. They are best kept individually, introduced only to breed, and an adult specimen can be kept quite comfortably in a vivarium measuring 36" x 36" x 36". As an arboreal snake they will spend much of their time coiled on a branch so a number of sturdy perches are essential. These must be in different locations in the vivarium to allow proper thermoregulation.

A thermal gradient is essential to allow your emerald boa to maintain its body temperature. Daytime temperatures around 75 - 80 F, dropping to the low 70s at night is ideal. A basking area a few degrees higher must be provided, but no UV lighting is needed.

Just as important as temperature is humidity. The emerald boa's natural habitat is tropical rainforest, and without high enough humidity they will experience shedding difficulty and other health problems. The vivarium must be misted daily, reaching a high of around 80% humidity. Fresh water should also always be provided, although these snakes very rarely drink from a bowl, preferring to get their liquids from prey and droplets of water on branches and leaves, and their own scales.

A substrate of sphagnum moss will help to maintain the humidity required, although paper towels are easier to keep clean. Due to the high humidity, good ventilation is essential to prevent stale air and fungal growth which can cause respiratory problems.

Since the emerald boa has such a slow metabolism, they are very easy to overfeed. One suitably sized prey item should be offered every 14 - 21 days. Most specimens can be persuaded to take defrosted rodents.

The emerald boa is a magnificent snake, and makes a superb addition to any reptile keepers collection, so long as you are able to maintain their strict husbandry requirements. They are without doubt one of the most fascinating of the boa species available to the pet trade, and a truly magnificent animal.

By Billy Deakin

Columbian Boa Care Sheet - Keeping Columbian Boas in Captivity

Scientific name: Boa Constrictor Imperator

The boa constrictor imperator is commonly known as the Common Boa, or Columbian Boa. The Boa Constrictor Imperator appears in literature with many different names, among which are: Sonoran boa, Hog Island boa, Central American Boa depending on geographic location, however it should not be confused with the popular Boa Constrictor Constrictor, or Red Tailed Boa, which is a separate sub-species.

Pattern: The Columbian boa is similar in appearance to the Red Tailed Boa constrictor. Most of the common boas have a reddish tail (though less vibrant than the true Red Tailed Boas), with the rest of the body a light brown with darker saddles.

Size: The Common Boa, or Columbian boa, while certainly a large snake, is relatively small for a boa constrictor. Its distinctive characteristic is the striking difference in size between the neck and the head; the body is compressed while the tail is very long. The adult Columbian boa weighs approximately 45 pounds and the female ones - which are by default bigger and stronger - weigh approximately 50 pounds. While adult red tailed boas may reach 12 feet, most common boas rarely exceed 9 feet in length.

Cage: The Columbian boa is known as a docile snake, easy to handle, and relatively easy to take care of. When young, it can be kept in a cage measuring 24x15x15 inches; most boa owners though buy a large aquarium from the beginning: a 72x24x24 vivarium will house an adult boa so there is no need to change cages later on. The vivarium needs to be easy to clean, well ventilated, and secure. For that reason, melamine or plastic vivariums with lockable glass sliding doors are recommended.

Heat: If you want to make your Columbian boa thrive in captivity, you need to provide not only adequate heat, but also a correct temperature gradient. The common boa comes from tropical environments, so additional heat is absolutely necessary. During the day an average temperature of 80-85F is recommended; at night the temperature should drop to 75-78F. You should also provide a basking area, where temperature is higher (closer to 90F). Providing a basking area is necessary for the Columbian boa, as it can avoid respiratory and other health problem. There are a number of heat sources available on the market. Incandescent bulbs, heat mat, and heat cable have all been used effectively but ceramic heaters are the most effective. Since they produce heat without light they do not affect the snake's photo period. Ceramic heaters however can get extremely hot so care must be taken to ensure that a guard is securely fastened to avoid burns.

Feeding: The Columbian Boa is a nocturnal snake and hunter; in the wild it usually eats small animals and birds. In captivity they can be fed exclusively on defrosted rodents which provide all the nutrients they need. A single prey item should be offered fortnightly for adults. The size of the prey should not be more than the snake's girth in order to prevent digestive problems. Juvenile boas should be fed weekly. A bowl of clean, fresh water should always be provided.

BY Billy Deakin